The story behind this dish is as colorful as the dish itself. Marchesi was a young chef working at one of the most prestigious restaurants in Milan in the 1970s. One day, his boss asked him to prepare risotto alla Milanese for the restaurant’s most important customer, a wealthy businessman. Marchesi, eager to impress, carefully followed the traditional recipe which involved slowly cooking the rice with onions, white wine, and meat broth, and then adding saffron at the end to give it its signature yellow color.
However, when the dish was presented to the businessman, he was not impressed. He complained that the risotto was too dry and lacked flavor. Marchesi, feeling discouraged, went back to the kitchen and decided to experiment. He added more butter and cheese to the dish, and most daringly, added a pinch of gold dust to give it a touch of luxury. When he presented the revised dish to the businessman, he loved it, and Marchesi became an instant hit.
The risotto alla Milanese then became Marchesi’s signature dish, but he always added a caveat: “Non chiamatela risotto alla Milanese, ma risotto oro e zafferano,” which means “don’t call it risotto alla Milanese, but golden risotto with saffron.” Marchesi was poking fun at himself and taking a jab at Italian culinary traditions, which can be rigid and dogmatic.
This dish encapsulates Marchesi’s approach to cooking. He was always looking for ways to push boundaries and challenge the status quo while maintaining respect for Italian culinary heritage. He was a pioneer of nouvelle cuisine, a movement that emerged in France in the 1970s and sought to modernize traditional cuisine by using fresher and lighter ingredients and experimenting with new techniques.
Marchesi was the first Italian chef to receive three Michelin , the highest accolade in the culinary world. He opened his own restaurant, Restaurant Gualtiero Marchesi, in Milan in 1986 and quickly became a mecca for food enthusiasts from all over the world. His dishes were works of art, with every element carefully crafted and executed to perfection. He was a master of his craft, but he never took himself too seriously.
Marchesi passed away in December 2017, but his legacy lives on. He inspired a generation of chefs with his creativity and his audacity. He proved that it is possible to marry tradition with innovation and to create dishes that are both delicious and beautiful. His risotto oro e zafferano is not only a crowd-pleaser, but it is also a testament to his spirit and his humor. Gualtiero Marchesi laughed golden with saffron, and his laughter will continue to resonate in the culinary world for years to come.