In Italy, the feast of San Martino on November 11th is much more than just a religious celebration. It is a time when people come together to honor the patron saint of winemakers and to mark the end of the harvest season. San Martino holds a special significance as it is believed that on this day, every must becomes wine.
The phrase “ogni mosto diventa vino” in Italian perfectly encapsulates the spirit of San Martino. It signifies the transformation of grape juice, known as must, into wine through the process of fermentation. This ancient saying conveys not only the essence of winemaking but also the idea of celebration and transformation.
Historically, San Martino was a crucial moment for winemakers as it marked the end of the grape harvest. After months of toiling in the vineyards, growers gathered to assess their efforts and revel in the fruits of their labor. It was a time of joy and gratitude, as the transformation from must to wine symbolized abundance, prosperity, and good fortune for the forthcoming year.
Even though the original beliefs may have faded, the festivities of San Martino have endured throughout the centuries. Today, the celebration has evolved to include traditional rituals, delicious food, and, of course, copious amounts of wine. In regions across Italy, this feast is an integral part of the cultural calendar.
One of the most iconic traditions associated with San Martino is the “pignarul” or “falo.” In some rural areas of northern Italy, large bonfires are lit, symbolizing the end of summer and the arrival of winter. People gather around the bonfires, warming themselves while indulging in roasted chestnuts and sipping on the newly fermented wine. The crackling flames, the laughter, and the clinking of glasses create a festive atmosphere that is cherished by young and old alike.
Another noteworthy aspect of San Martino celebrations is the consumption of traditional foods and sweets. In many regions, it is customary to feast on hearty dishes such as roasted meats, polenta, and seasonal vegetables. Moreover, bakeries and pastry shops are filled with tempting treats like “pane dei morti” (bread of the dead), “fave dei morti” (beans of the dead), and “cotognata” (quince cheese). These special delicacies are enjoyed alongside generous pours of red and white wine, adding to the conviviality of the occasion.
San Martino, however, is not only about festivities and indulgence; it also serves as a reminder of the importance of community and cooperation. In small towns and villages, the entire community comes together to organize festivals, processions, and grape-stomping events. These activities foster a sense of camaraderie among neighbors and reinforce the bonds between generations.
Beyond the celebrations, San Martino carries a profound cultural heritage and a respect for the land. It is a time when winemakers reflect on the challenges they’ve faced throughout the growing season, from unpredictable weather to pests and diseases. Yet, despite these obstacles, they persistently strive to nurture the best possible grapes to create exceptional wines.
San Martino, with its age-old saying “ogni mosto diventa vino,” embodies the artistry and transformation inherent in winemaking. It symbolizes the connection between nature and humankind, reminding us that every drop of must can become something extraordinary. So raise a glass, toast to San Martino, and celebrate the labor, dedication, and passion that go into every bottle of wine.