First, what is a trattoria? In Italy, a trattoria is a casual, family-owned restaurant that serves home-style dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Think of it as a neighborhood joint where locals go for a comforting meal and a glass of wine. Trattorias are often characterized by a cozy, rustic atmosphere, friendly service, and affordable prices. They are the antithesis of high-end, formal eateries.
Ortica is a residential neighborhood located east of Milan’s city center. It’s not a tourist hotspot, but that’s precisely why you should visit it. In Ortica, you’ll find trattorias that have been around for decades, serving classic Milanese dishes prepared with love and expertise. Here are some of the best places to try:
Trattoria Caprese
Caprese is a charming trattoria that has been run by the same family since 1956. The decor is simple and understated, but the food speaks for itself. The menu features traditional Milanese dishes such as ossobuco alla ese (braised veal shanks), risotto alla milanese (with saffron), and cotoletta alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet). They also have excellent antipasti and homemade desserts like tiramisu and panna cotta. The prices are very reasonable, and the portions are generous. Caprese is a local favorite, so be sure to book ahead.
Trattoria Antica Pesa
Antica Pesa is another venerable institution in Ortica, having opened in 1939. The dining room is old-school elegant, with white tablecloths and wood-paneled walls. The menu focuses on classic Milanese and Lombardian cuisine, with a few surprises here and there. They make their pasta and gnocchi from scratch, and they have a fantastic wine list. Try the golden-hued saffron risotto with ossobuco, or the creamy pumpkin risotto with gorgonzola cheese. The prices are moderate, and the service is delightful.
Trattoria da Poldo
If you’re looking for a more casual trattoria experience, head to da Poldo. This cozy spot has a friendly vibe, with vintage knick-knacks on the walls and a communal table in the center of the room. The menu is refreshingly simple, with a few pasta dishes (like the tagliatelle with meat sauce), meats (try the roasted veal), and salads. The standout dish is the polpettone, a massive meatloaf made with beef, pork, and mortadella, served with mashed potatoes. It’s comfort food at its finest. The prices are budget-friendly, so da Poldo is an excellent option for a quick lunch or a casual dinner.
Trattoria Toscana
Despite its name, Trattoria Toscana is actually a Milanese trattoria, and a popular one at that. The decor is old-fashioned, with wooden chairs and tiled floors, but the food is top-notch. They have a wide selection of antipasti, including the famous Milanese cold cuts (salame, coppa, bresaola), and excellent meat dishes like roasted rabbit and braised beef cheeks. The pasta is also noteworthy, especially the ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach. The prices are mid-range, and the portions are substantial.
In conclusion, if you want to experience the authentic side of Milan’s food scene, you can’t go wrong with a visit to the trattorias of Ortica. These unpretentious eateries offer delicious, homestyle cooking in a cozy atmosphere, without breaking the bank. So grab a bottle of wine, order a plate of risotto alla milanese, and enjoy the simple pleasures of Italian cuisine. Buon appetito!