As you walk into the to-go-only sandwich shop (be sure to bring cash, because they don’t accept credit cards), you will feel like you’ve entered a small cafeteria. People queue up while they survey the menu, and others come in, wave at the staff, and tell them their order. Most of the sandwiches cost just €5 ($6) or €6 ($7), but a few premium ingredients—as well as beautiful packaging at the end of your wait—bring the price up to €8 ($9). Take a and wait your turn. It can sometimes take from 15 to 45 minutes to get your sandwich, but it’s worth every second of waiting.
If there’s anything we’ve learned from our three trips to 50 Kalo, it’s that every sandwich has character and that sleepers—surprises that we might have overlooked on previous visits—are hiding amongst the mix. Here are our favorites, but don’t feel limited by this small selection: Going to 50 Kalo and not exploring with the menu would be a mistake.
The pastrami ciabatta has juicy, fatty pastrami, grilled eggplant, and a green salsa that cuts through the richness. It’s decadent, like a Reuben without any kind of cheese or dressing. Then there’s the falafel sandwich, probably one of the best we’ve had in Italy, with nuggets of spiced falafel nestled in warm, chewy focaccia, along with tahini, pickled onions, and grilled eggplant. The meatball sandwich rivals our favored one from Bestia in Los Angeles with its fluffy, soft bread, tangy tomato sauce, and small meatballs that break apart with each bite.
The “Grandfather” sandwich, named after Salvo’s grandfather, is befitting of its name: Heaps of mildly spiced sausage, kale, and smoked mozzarella fill the bread, which is shaped like a lantern and grill-marked. The sausage reminds us of Greek loukaniko—a bit crumbly, with lots of fennel seed and just the right amount of fat. The smoked cheese fills out the flavors without overshadowing the other ingredients.
The pork belly sandwich is intensely flavorful, being both sweet and savory, with juicy bites of slow-cooked pork belly swimming in a spicy mustard sauce. The sauce is what really sets this sandwich apart from others we’ve had, providing a great, cleaving complement to the richness of the meat on a perfectly cooked ciabatta roll.
The meatball sandwich is the star of the menu, with tender, flavorful meatballs in a bright tomato sauce with the perfect balance of acidity offset by the smooth, mild provolone cheese and the bread that’s so fresh, it tastes like it just came out of the oven.
The cured ham and provolone sandwich is salty and savory, with slices of briny pickled chiles bringing a little heat to the mix. The bread, which looks like a large sub roll, has a dense, chewy crumb that keeps things interesting for our teeth and jaws.
But what truly sets all of the sandwiches apart is Salvo’s bread. As with his pizzas, Salvo uses irregular, naturally leavened dough that’s full of flavor. The crust is crisp, but the bread inside is pillowy soft, exactly what bread should be. It’s a delight in every bite.
The sandwiches at 50 Kalo are a true celebration of flavor, tradition, and innovation, and they demonstrate a deep understanding of each ingredient that goes into them. So if you’re in the vicinity of Piazza Vanvitelli, be sure to go pay Ciro Salvo and his team a visit.